Neighbourhoods
Warsaw's Praga, then and now
Pre-war tenements, the Neon Museum, Ząbkowska street and new lofts in old factories: how Praga has changed as a place to live.
For a long time, Praga was the part of Warsaw that visitors were told to skip. On the right bank of the Vistula, it came through the Second World War with less destruction than the city centre, which is why so many of its pre-war tenement houses are still standing. Today it is a neighbourhood where old and new sit side by side.
Tenements and courtyards
Walk along Ząbkowska, Brzeska or Targowa and you will see the kamienice that shaped Praga's character: tall façades, arched gateways and shared courtyards, some with small shrines built by residents. Many have been renovated in recent years, while others are still waiting. Flats in these buildings often have high ceilings and generous windows, though lifts and modern insulation are not a given.
Ząbkowska street and Koneser
Ząbkowska is a well-known Praga street, with cafés and bars in old buildings and the historic Bazar Różyckiego market nearby. On the same street is Koneser, a former vodka distillery whose brick halls now hold restaurants, offices, apartments and the Polish Vodka Museum.
The Neon Museum
In the Soho Factory complex on Mińska street, the Neon Museum collects the neon signs that lit up Polish cities in the post-war decades. It is a good example of how Praga has become a place for culture as well as for living.
New lofts and everyday life
Alongside the tenements, former factories and warehouses have been turned into loft apartments, and new residential buildings have filled gaps in the streets. The second metro line crosses the river to Praga, which keeps the journey to the centre short. Some streets are still rough around the edges and the pace of change varies from block to block, so it pays to visit a flat at different times of day.
If you are considering a move to Praga, our team is happy to help — just use the contact form.
